Entry

New Lighting Project – Ushio 14K & 20K Halides

We’ve slowly been working on a new lighting project that will be based off a 250w DE metal halide lamp as the core light. I have used various metal halides before, but I have primarily used single ended screw based lamps for the improved bulb selection–my favorites being the 6.5K Iwasaki, 20K Radium and 20K [...]

We’ve slowly been working on a new lighting project that will be based off a 250w DE metal halide lamp as the core light. I have used various metal halides before, but I have primarily used single ended screw based lamps for the improved bulb selection–my favorites being the 6.5K Iwasaki, 20K Radium and 20K XM. When discussing this project with a few friends everyone seemed to say the same thing about 250w DEs–Phoenix, Phoenix, Phoenix.

The Phoenix 14K lamp is one of the most popular 250w DE lamps and it does put out plenty of PAR…but I personally do not care for the washed out effect it can have on certain colors (reds and yellows). I tried them in the past, and quickly switched them out in favor of SE 20k’s that I had grown to love the way they displayed my SPS. I was still open to suggestions as I seeked out a crisp white color, so I asked a few more trusted friends in different parts of the world.

Ushio Metal Halide

In Europe and Asia, where double ended halides are much more prevalent, one of the most popular lamps is the 14K BLV. As some know, this is believe to be a Ushio lamp. I cannot say 100% that the bulbs are identical, however, BLV is the German factory where the Ushio 10K, 14K and 20Ks are made. In Europe the lamps are also marketed under BLV, where as here Ushio. I called up the guys at Ushio, and after a brief discussion about the lamps and their spectral qualities / lifespan I was set. 

There is not much information on these lamps, but those that use them (particularly the 14K) seem very pleased. During a brief search online we found no records of PAR measurements taken for the stamped Ushio lamps, only HIT (BLV). See Sanjay Joshi’s terrific reef lighting guide on Manhattan Reef’s for more information.

When it comes to preferences, Kelvin rating is the ultimate deciding factor. There are two major faults with this that as a hobby we often ignore:

  • Bulb choice should be dictated by the animals we keep
  • Kelvin ratings are largely ‘guesstimated’ and used for marketing

Ever wonder why one brands lamp is listed as a 20K, but is more white than another 14K? The aquarium hobby is filled with poor lighting ‘etiquette’ including kelvin ratings, terminology, and ANSI codes. If you ever carry on a conversation about lighting outside of the aquarium hobby this is a quick realization. 

I have always been pleased with Ushio lamps in the past. Largely because you can find specific information on the bulbs. The lamps have specific ANSI codes to help you determine the proper ballast. Both the 14k & 20K are designed to be driven by an M80 ballast. Aquarist’s preferences often dictate what ballast will be used with what bulb, but the listed ANSI codes provide a valuable starting point. These lamps will be driven either by a standard M80 or a newer electronic ballast that can replicate the recommended conditions. 

Will have more on the lighting project in the near future as a rebuild unfolds. Many thanks to Joe and Ushio North America.

Related Posts

  1. MACNA XXI : Ushio 14k G12 Metal Halide
  2. Ushio 4w MR16 LED Spotlight
  3. New Elos Spectra Chrome Metal Halides
  4. New Vertex Electronic Metal Halide Ballasts
  5. Part 2 | LFP’s Xenon and LED Reef Lighting System

Meta

  • I used only Ushio 1000W 20K SE lamps on my reef tank and the look was great. In hind-sight, I probably light-inhibited my corals to some extent, but i went with the 1000W to make up for a perceived loss in PAR. These lamps are as solid as they come, and Ushio really knows lighting.
  • @Matt, not sure at this point. Something along the lines of LumenBright, or a fixture I've been eyeing from Japan. I will be using the spots and potentially some other smaller halides as well.
  • Matt
    @Eric, so which reflectors will you be using? With "additional Halide sources" being the spots?
  • @Matt, The 10ks are a nice white. With VHO actinic the crispness is hard to match.

    So why 14 & 20? Two reasons. First being aesthetics, I prefer the deeper look for the animals I keep.

    Secondly I plan on using LEDs and additional Halide sources, which are easier to highlight with white light than blue.
  • Matt
    Eric, any reason for a 14k and a 20k? When I was running DEs, I ran the Gman 13ks and those bulbs are dang bright and very white.
  • Kevin
    @Jon

    You probably already know this, but there are, I'm not sure if its Osram or Philips that make a electronic low frequency ballasts.I believe they use them in high frequency sensitive areas eg hospitals.
    My question is why have they not made it to this hobby?

    Your wright on the AC/DC motors except the DC motors are easier to control speeds.
  • Jon 'hahnmeister'
    @eric
    I hear you. A while back, Icecap was supposed to be working with Ushio on an e-ballast that was designed for their bulbs in particular. There is no reason why say, an e-ballast couldnt be designed to run at under 300hz... the designation 'e-ballast' is rather misleading, as M80's and HQI's are 'e-ballasts' from a certain standpoint, since they are all electric. e-ballasts in general are supposed to use some sort of solid-state controller to manipulate the power going into the bulb, usually to be 'self sensing' like power factor correction and other things. There is no reason why someone couldnt make an e-ballast to HQI spec, or lower frequency, or make a hybrid of the two. This is much in the same way that when you start talking engineering level design of electronics, there is no such thing as 'AC' or 'DC' with electricity. The engineers here should know what I mean. For instance... what is the difference between an AC and DC motor? Nothing... at least not at the motor level itself.
  • amashun
    when i say "flicker", it does take some time for it to show the problem. I mean, how long would these lamp tester run these lamps for? 30 mins, 15 mins ,5mins or even less? so the duration and consistency would be questionable IMO.

    by saying that there is no doubt that E. ballasts can fire up BLV lamp. my test were done from IC 250W e.ballast and one Chinese cheapy E.ballast that available in OZ local market.
  • Jon 'hahnmeister'
    I wouldnt say its a 'gray area', since Ushio will confirm it. Perhaps there is some variation between e-ballasts. Mine was an icecap 250. At first, I thought I was on crack, or that my water was what was making the yellow (I was carbon dosing and changing carbon like mad...lol). But after a while, a couple other hobbyists in my club (nait002 and prugs) had the exact same experience (we were not aware of our parellel experiences until a meeting where I mentioned it and a few others mentioned similar).

    Switched to M80's & new bulbs (simply changing ballasts wont reverse the damage from distortion).
  • @John, Very few know ANSI codes and it's a gray area. The line "electronics can drive any bulb" is used all to often and as we know that's not the case.

    IMO it's not as simple as 'No' on Electronic and 'Yes' on M80s. Certainly M80s drive the bulb optimally, no argument there and Ushio's ANSI rec. attests. However, there are a couple electronic ballasts that have been successful at powering these lamps, with newer ballasts that are still in question.
  • amashun
    Cool, thanks Jon for the infos.
  • ctenophore
    Interesting to hear the comments on Ushio 14k and e-ballasts. I just switched to 3x400w SE 14k, running them on blueline ballasts and don't see any of the yellow you mention. I'm supplementing these with 6x80w T5, a mix of blue+ & actinic. I'm really happy with the color I'm getting now, both the overall look and coral response to the new light. Maybe the 400SE doesn't suffer from the same ballast limitations as the 250DE? I don't see any mention on the box re: frequency limitation.
  • reef
    I think thats pretty old news that BLV/Ushio/ Giesemann Megachrome are the same bulb.
  • I use 2 x BLV 10kK 250W DE bulbs on my 240 gallon tank. Together with 4x54W Osram 67 blue T5 lamps the light is very natural looking "crisp white"
  • @Jon, I have not seen the Megachromes and Ushio's side by side... but I have heard this on multiple occasions.

    I will stick with the trusty advanced m80, but I will also try at least one electronic to evaluate the color shifts and flickering. This is a definite gray area for most aquarists.

    With PFO out of the game and Bluewaves as well, the M80 #s in the aquarium market have definitely taken a hit. I am surprised others, besides AquaMedic are not re-badging Advanced these days.
  • Jon 'hahnmeister'
    I have tested the ouput and spectrum of the Ushio 14,000K's and related bulbs. Sanjay's data is either incorrect or out of date. This bulb's PAR is higher than the Pheonix 14,000K, by about 15%. You are correct that this is the same bulb as the BLV... er... well... we should be specific: BLV Nepturion = Ushio Aqualite = Giesemann Megachrome. Oops... I think I spilled it... Giesemann Megachrome 14,500K = Ushio 14,000K = BLV 14,000K, same for the 10,000K Ushio = G-man 13,000K, and the 20,000K's. Sanjay's data on the G-man is also incorrect for the Giesemann 14,500K. You will note that the result for the bulb (he has it listed as 13,000K Coral) w/ sheild is HIGHER than w/o, which is impossible. In short, the data on this bulb category is all screwed up. The output of the G-man and Ushio is identical in spectrum and intensity. Any variation is more likely due to the exact batch or age of the bulb.

    I will add that you should NOT operate these bulbs on any electronic ballast, esp the 10,000K and 14,000K's. They will look yellower than if on a M80/Advance HQI (Many in my club use these bulbs and have noted the color shift from e-ballasts in person). Right on the package it states not to operate the bulbs at frequencies higher than 300 Hz... which means just about every e-ballast out there. According to Ushio's engineers (I talked with over the phone), there is a harmonic distortion with these bulbs on e-ballasts which causes the above mentioned problems and then some.

    This bulb is my favorite coral growing bulb though. Its what I use to get killer colors myself. I match the wattage of these bulbs with equal wattage of blue+ and true actinic bulbs (so one 250wattDE gets 4x54 watts of blue+ and actinic). I have never seen pink, blue, and peach prostrata types look so wicked.
  • amashun
    nice write up. I have been using BLV 14k for almost a year now and i'm extremely happy with its long term performance. Previously, using XM 15K and Reeflux 12K, however the intensity drop dramatically after 6 months but colourwise was very pleased. I would be also interested to see how you go with the Ushion 20K. Some HK reefers said the intensity is not there but the blue is very pleased to look at....

    BTW, you have mentioned both lamp are supposed to be use on M80 ballast. interestingly i've witnessed 2 times in different situation/location that when BLV fire up with E.ballast, they will have "flickers" which can not be use normally.
  • very cool, I have been wanting to switch my bulbs as well and may give them a shot. Im not using an supplementation so am looking for a nice blue color but never used the ushio other than the 10ks'
blog comments powered by Disqus