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    Amyloodinium and Secondary Infections – Part 1, How I nearly lost every fish and still may

    I  previously wrote about upcoming changes to our reef, the glassbox, but what has occurred over the past couple weeks was never on the radar. An outbreak of Amyloodinium ocellatum, known as velvet or marine velvet, nearly took the lives of all our fish–and still may from secondary infections, but some how things are looking positive. A few [...]

    I  previously wrote about upcoming changes to our reef, the glassbox, but what has occurred over the past couple weeks was never on the radar. An outbreak of Amyloodinium ocellatum, known as velvet or marine velvet, nearly took the lives of all our fish–and still may from secondary infections, but some how things are looking positive.

    A few weeks back we purchased two new butterflyfish (C. collare & C. xanthocephalus). The order was supposed to be pushed back by 1 week, but a mix-up happened and was shipped out that morning. I requested the order to be pushed back because that weekend a fitting on our RODI units broke, leaving me with no freshwater reserves for top off or acclimation. 

    Regrettably the fish arrived, but in sub-par condition with obvious large lymphocystis growths. I mistakenly took the gamble of adding them direct to the display. In hindsight, borrowing an RODI unit from a friend to set up a quick QT, would have been the correct move…

    collare_lympho

    Chaetodon collare with Lymphocystis and early “signs” of  white dots

    The new fish settled in well and ate with vigor on the second day. Beyond the lymphocystis growths all appeared well, only that later that evening I realized that lymphcystis was not the only thing these fish were harboring– small white dots on the body appeared to be Cryptocaryon irritans, known as ich or “cryp”. I was a bit upset at the time, but it was nothing alarming. So be it, I will have a reef that has ich. 

    The other fish in the system were extremely healthy. Some garlic, selcon and metronidazole mixed in with hefty feedings was my initial plan of action.  It’s very common for certain fish to show signs of ich (e.g. Achilles Tangs). I am of the belief that ich free systems can be achieved, but fish can live just fine with cryptocaryon if in a healthy and stress free environment.

    A few days later I noticed the Roaops Hybrid had some dots. I muttered some curses under my breath and began feeding even heavier with garlic along with daily waterchanges. I doubt garlic does anything (correlation is not causation), but it makes us feel better as caretakers. 

    hybrid-velvet-360

    At this point the dots were dispersed and on the fins of the Hybrid, appearing to me as a classic case of “Cryp”. They left the fish in 4-5 days, fitting of marine ich’s lifecycle. I knew the mini-battle was not over, but there was a part of me that was happy to see no more “white dots”. At this point Ich goes into its protomont stage, it leaves the fish host and travels to the substrate were it subsequently encysts and becomes a tomont. While in cyst form the parastite multiplies rapidly to then hatch, swim in the water column (called theronts) and then  re-infect the fish starting the process all over. (Velvet takes a similar route, but as a dinoflagellate it can live significantly longer without a fish host.) For both the parasite it’s an extremely effective strategy, but the bane of aquarists all over the world. Some fish develop immunity to Ich and velvet, but I was not so lucky. Sure enough the dots came back. 

    At this point only the Roaops hybrid showed any signs. Breathing was not labored, and all fish appeared normal. Over the next few days the hybrid had increases and decreases in the number of dots (5-20). I considered taking the fish out for QT, but without letting the tank go fallow for 8+ weeks it would have only been re-infected by what I still thought was ich. I made the decision to wait it out. Five “ich” dots was nothing to fret about, but on a fish that I prize I was not at ease.

    I woke up the next day, Saturday, to find an explosion. The hybrid now had 1 “dot” for every half inch and it had spread to the Declivis. Was this now a severe case of ich or velvet? It still did not appear to be velvet as the dots seemed much too large, but the number of them had me concerned. To be on the safe side, I immediately began aerating a bucket of freshwater, adding baking soda and a heater for proper temperature and pH matching. I left the house for a couple hours, by the time I got home the dots had rapidly increased as did the fishes’ slime production and breathing rates. Damnit, it’s velvet. Typically when velvet reaches this point the fish are too far gone to recover; the infestation of the gills is too far advanced. The fish get a light dusting over the entire body, creating a sickly velvet appearance.  I loathed in self-pity for a second as I realized I was about to lose my two favorite fish and then kicked my self into gear for a freshwater bath.

    Part 2 can be found HERE.

    Related Posts

    1. Amyloodinium and Secondary Infections – Part 2, Freshwater Dips and QT
    2. Amyloodinium and Secondary Infections – Part 3, Mortality and Rebuild
    3. Mixing Butterflyfish is Never Easy, Glassbox Banks on New Fish
    4. Banks in, Declivis Out of The Glassbox
    5. Tinkeri Hybrid goes in minutes on Diver’s Den
    • Jonathan P

      Ah, Goddamnit!

      Good luck with hopefully curing the rest of them and hopefully saving the infected fish. That really, really blows.

      Velvet is terrible to fight. Have lost a few fish in the past to velvet and I battled it at the store I worked at for a little while until it was out of the system.

      Again, good luck.

    • Nicholas Sadaka

      Eric, I’m so, so sorry to hear this and I hope this story has a good ending. I guess it’s really hit or miss what happens when you take the approach that you (and I) took. I had my outbreak 2 or 3 years ago when I added a new, infected butterflyfish and I fed heavily with lots of Selcon and Garlic and any supplement I could find and did 20-30% weekly water changes religiously. I got past it (although the butterflyfish succombed, that was the only loss…he was in hidden horrible shape when he arrived) and was very, very relieved, but I guess it was really a roll of the dice since it sounds like we did things pretty much the same. I wish you and your fish the best…I’m crossing my fingers.

    • http://stonyreef.com L::

      Yikes, man. Sorry to hear. Just getting back from a trip and catching up on some reading… an unfortunate first article to click on…

      LMK if there’s something I can help with: water, spare 10 gal QT, whatever.

    • Jeremy Maneyapanda

      Eric;

      Thats sucks. Be sure you are looking the the right disease. For whatever reason, IMO, when the weather starts warming up (coincidentally every May), the prevalence of Brookynella and Uronema also pops up. Both are pretty nasty, and you’ll want to be sure you arent dealing with them. While what I see sure does look like crypt, there no real whay to tell from photos only. Regardless, good luck.

    • Ian

      Sorry to hear Eric, you have some great fish. I hope everything works out…

    • http://pressminebutton.blogspot.com Felix

      E.
      Sorry to hear about your sudden accident/misfortune
      hopefully it will turn out fine *waiting on part II*
      beautiful fish non the less,
      gotta love those butterflies!!!

      f.

    • http://esopp.us Richie Vos

      Sorry to hear the extent of your troubles. Having enough extra water around is one of those easy in theory but really difficult in practice things that always ends up as a pain.

      A couple months ago I had an ich problem. I took awhile before trying to QT my favorite kole tang and then my royal gramma. Sadly I lost both of those guys although the rest of the tank made it. Now I’m in the middle of an algae war.

      These tanks sure are a battle huh. There needs to be a twitter #chicagoreef call-line or something for these “I need some equipment quick” instances. Feel free to shoot me a line if you need something.

    • J

      I’m curious – why was dechlorinated tap water not an option for the QT?

    • richard

      Please people. Quarantine. Keep it handy.

      Take water out of your display tank, in a bucket, whatever. Mixing healthy looking fish into a system is a gamble in itself, to add already sick fish is just stupid.

      Ich and velvet require immediate removal of the fish into a hospital tank, it is not, I stress this, not a disease you want to just ‘wait to see the full life cycle’ of.

      Not to worry though, these things happen, and it’s a lesson learned.

      I learned it when I took a healthy flame angel home to find it ‘iching’ up after a couple of days. I spent a night catching it, treated with copper or 14 days, and have been ich free in display since. Fingers crossed!

    • http://glassbox-design.com eric michael

      @J, I forgot to include that. To make maters worse, that Friday we had the water turned off. Living in an old loft, the pipes are suspect at best… It took nearly a week for the water to clear up from rust colored and to normal TDS of 160-200.

      Also when copper treatments are needed it’s best to avoid dechlorinators and let tap water sit out for a few days in advance (or purchase distilled water). Dechlorinators such as prime can reduce Cu++ to Cu+ which is 10 times more toxic.

    • http://glassbox-design.com eric michael

      @All, Thanks for the kind words. Learn from my mistakes. Stuff like this does happen, but taking quick action can be the difference between life and death.

      Everything is under control and some positives will come from this whole fiasco. I’ll have Part 2 & 3 up soon.

    • Brandon

      Sorry to hear it Eric. As they say… only bad things happen fast in this hobby. Keep fighting the good fight and keep us posted.

    • http://blog.fragd.it Vlad

      The pain never goes away when I think about my episode with Marine Velvet. It wiped my entire tank. All fish were dead except one.

      A hard lesson to learn. Quarantining all fish is a must, unfortunately.

      You didn’t mention any fish dying, wich is always a positive sign!

    • http://glassbox-design.com/2009/amyloodinum-and-secondary-infections-part-2-freshwater-dips-and-qt/ Amyloodinum and Secondary Infections – Part 2, Freshwater Dips and QT | glassbox-design.com

      [...] This post is a continuance from part 1. [...]

    • http://glassbox-design.com/2009/amyloodinium-treatment-and-quarantine/ Amyloodinium Treatment and Quarantine | glassbox-design.com

      [...] I apologize about the delay on this post. Below is a continuance from #1 and #2. [...]

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